Italy

On a curvy mountain road in the heart of Tuscany, Bruno, our bus driver, slowed to a stop. The road didn’t have a shoulder and there was limited visibility ahead. Bruno effectively executed a three-point turn and backed our bus onto a one-lane bridge over the small river running alongside. My seatmate held her breath and stuck her phone to the window, recording what she didn’t dare to watch in order for her survivors to see if she didn’t make it back home—and maybe to watch for herself if she did. Bruno never flinched. He expertly backed across the bridge and turned into a small parking area under the trees. Thirty-eight students, parents, and teachers erupted into cheers and applause. We will talk about Bruno for a long time. He’s got skills.

Relieved to be on land again, we noticed our surroundings. Three large stone buildings nestled under tall pine trees, surrounded by mountains and a clear rushing river. On the hill above us, about three kilometers away, was the bell tower of Collodi, the birthplace of Pinocchio. We learned we were in Pescia, the city of flowers and paper, within walking distance of the village of Lucca. “Welcome to Villagio Albergo San Lorenzo e Santa Carina.” Italy.

Our hotel, comprised of two beautifully restored 1700’s water paper mills, was called Albergo Diffusio. In all, there were three buildings, scattered in a park under a grove of tall pines, almost like a small village. My roommate and I were given a room on the first level, our window opening onto a terrazzo (or terrace). From the huge beams in the ceiling to the shuttered windows (without screens), it was like stepping back in history.

Once we were free to explore, we discovered the hotel was an adventure in itself. Above us were two levels of guest rooms. Below, was an outdoor eating area, another large terrazzo, and the restaurant. I discovered an old sluiceway underneath the hotel that was no longer filled with water. Aside from a couple of adults I convinced to accompany me and the large resident frog, indignant at being almost stepped on, I don’t think anyone else ventured to explore it. But we did, and it was quite a thrill.

Being in Italy, for dinner, we began with pasta, as at every meal on our trip. The only exception to pasta for our planned meals was in the Naples region. Here, we were offered Margherita pizza, with mozzarella cheese and fresh basil, since Naples is its birthplace.

In a traditional Italian dinner, the primo, or first course, is customarily something filling like pasta or risotto. Secondo, or second course, consists of meat, though we were also served potatoes, salad, or a vegetable alongside. Like most of our dinner pastas during the week, we were served a sauce common to the region we were in. Dessert was usually something small—ice cream, a brownie, or at Albergo Diffusio, an ice cream sandwich. I gained a few pounds on this trip. No shame. It was wonderful.

After dinner, the hotel manager opened the pool so the students could work off some of their pent-up energy—a wise move on his part. My roommate and I walked around the grounds and over to another building where we discovered a water wheel. One of the staff turned it on so we could watch it turn and take pictures. That building was a maze of wonderfully restored small sitting and event areas as well as another restaurant. A small number of adults and students discovered a museum somewhere in the levels underneath. So much to explore and so little time. I would love to have spent more time both at the hotel and exploring the nearby villages.

Another parent and I decided to get up early the next morning for a run. I love my runs when I’m traveling and they are some of my favorite memories. Being jet-lagged and getting up at five thirty am had me rethinking my plan. However, once I stepped out into the cool temperature and the beautiful morning, it was easy to take off up the gravel road leading away from the hotel.

The path ran through a small orchard and along the river toward the village. There were wild flowers and rock walls and birds. The view down into the village was beautiful. I stopped a few times, mostly to take pictures, but once because we were startled by a small gray pig peeking out of the weeds growing over a low rock wall. Turns out the pig was actually a stone statue, pretty realistic looking when you’re running along not paying attention, but aside from him and a small wooden deer, we didn’t see any other wildlife. the run was a great start to the day. I was glad I’d given up the extra sleep.

The Continental breakfast was much the same as all our hotels, an assortment of meats, cheese, fruit, cereal, rolls, and yogurt. We had a choice of juices—including blood orange juice which was very good—tea, coffee, and chocolate. One of my takeaways from this trip is that Italians know how to do chocolate. I had seconds both mornings we ate at Albergo Diffusio. So good.

This trip to Italy was two years in the planning. I was helping chaperone a group of high school students and their families. It was so much fun. My little family of ducks was a delight to keep up with and I’d go back with them any day. The trip was planned through EF Tours, so the focus of everything was learning the history and culture of the places we visited. I thoroughly enjoyed all of it.

I would love to return someday with time to relax and explore on my own. The beauty of the Italian countryside draws me back. I can see myself sitting on the terrazzo sipping chocolate and reading a good book, or maybe taking off on one of the trekking or mountain biking trails that lead from the hotel through the Valleriana, or “Switzerland Pesciatina”— ten castella or characteristic medieval villages in the region.

One thing I do know. If I get to go back to Italy and I have the opportunity to request a bus driver, Bruno will be top of my list.

Blessings and Arrivederci!